The Untold Story of Honey and Heritage Of Negombo

Negombo, a picturesque coastal town in Sri Lanka, isn’t just famous for its beautiful beaches; it carries a rich tapestry of culture intertwined with its agricultural and fishing practices. Among the many stories that define this town is a fascinating folktale about a legendary sixteen-cubit bee known as the “bee-gomu.” According to local lore, this remarkable bee helped complete the “dolduka” (a kind of offering) for Vihara Mahadevi, the mother of the famous King Dutugemunu. But when we dig a little deeper into ancient texts like the Mahavamsa and Thupavamsa, a different picture emerges. They suggest that Vihara Mahadevi’s beehive was actually found near the “Golu Muhuda” in the southern region of Sri Lanka, far from Negombo’s sandy shores. It’s interesting how stories evolve, isn’t it?

The Historical and Cultural Context

While the folktale paints a vivid picture of honey and heroism, historical facts seem to point elsewhere. Vihara Mahadevi lived in Magampura, a good 275 kilometers away from Negombo, suggesting that there’s no real historical link between her and this bustling coastal town. That said, the name “Negombo” has its roots in its honey-producing legacy. Explorers from various nations, including the Arabs, Portuguese, Dutch, and English, noted that the name translates to “village of honey.” However, none of them tied it to the narratives surrounding King Dutugemunu or his mother.

Adding to the intrigue, S. Guru Fernando, known locally as Mr. Santiago Fernando, created a fictional narrative linking Negombo to national history. He claimed that the “Doladuka Sidalu Mewada” of Vihara Devi was found in Negombo, although there’s no solid evidence to back this assertion. This highlights how historical tales can morph over time, influenced by local pride and cultural identity. Portuguese-era documents do, however, confirm Negombo’s strong reputation for honey production, coconut nectar, and jaggery, showcasing a vibrant trade with regions like South India’s Coromandel.

The Honey and Coconut Connection

Negombo’s history is rich with the production of sweet delights. Historical texts such as Lex Mercatoria (1813) and writings from Father John Wesley reveal that fishermen in Negombo were not just skilled at catching fish but were also adept at handling beehives, producing honey, and making coconut nectar. The town also boasts a fascinating tradition of candle-making using beeswax, especially prominent along Surya Mawatha and Wellaweediya. In fact, according to the Gardeners’ Chronicle from 1926, Negombo was well-known for creating honey and sweet dishes with local ingredients like coconut nectar, cashews, ginger, and jaggery.

Speaking of sweets, Negombo has a thriving culinary scene that specializes in delicious treats like alua (a type of sweet), cashew nut sweets, and traditional coconut cakes like bibikkan. These recipes have roots in Portuguese influences, reflecting the town’s rich history of trade and cultural exchange. By 1878, tax records show that there were jaggery shops on Vistarini Road, known as Hakuru Mudukkuwa, where locals could buy various types of jaggery, from coconut to sugarcane.

The tradition of buying honey has its charm, too. Local folks often recall the days of purchasing honey stored in clay pots and scooped out with coconut spoons. It’s a memory that brings warmth and nostalgia, reflecting a time when local markets thrived with fresh produce and community interactions. The lush landscape of Negombo, filled with colorful flowers and fruits, supported honey production beautifully. Henry William Cave, in his 1910 book The Ceylon Government Railway, painted a vivid picture of this environment.

The Natural Beauty of Negombo

Describing Negombo, historical accounts speak of a town adorned with flower gardens, serene lakes, and captivating scenery. Names like Dehimalwatta and Nelumpitiya are reminders of this beauty. Charles Pridham, writing in 1849, describes vibrant cinnamon plantations and aromatic orange trees lining the roads, making it hard not to feel a sense of wonder about the region’s natural wealth.

However, fast forward to today, and much of this greenery has faded away, replaced by urbanization and development. The historical coconut cultivation in Negombo has a significant legacy, having been promoted during the Dutch era. Coconuts thrived here, giving rise to a robust coconut industry that still influences the town’s economy. John Ferguson’s 1907 report highlights that workers were brought from India to help with the coconut plantations, which were key to the local economy.

In areas like Dalwakotuwa, Kattuwa, and Kuruduwatta, the production of coconut nectar and jaggery is still part of daily life. Locals collect nectar by carefully cutting coconut flowers, a practice that has remained consistent over generations. Additionally, the hull bark required for producing Telijja honey is sourced from Halpe, a village nearby, rich in coconuts and other flora.

The Coconut Industry’s Evolution

Negombo’s coconut industry was once a sight to behold. The landscape was dotted with coir factories producing ropes, carpets, and other goods, leading to “mountains” of coir visible across the area. Children often climbed these coir piles, playful in their explorations while gazing out toward the sea. James Emerson Tennent, in 1858, noted the extensive coconut plantations stretching from Negombo to Halawata, a testament to the crop’s dominance in the region.

As coconuts were harvested, they were processed into copra and oil, with early oil-pressing factories emerging in the 1900s. The Hamilton Canal became a vital transport route for copra, and local children had the fun of collecting the by-products from passing ferries. The coconut oil industry is still alive today, with locations like Koppara Junction and Thelwatta Junction serving as reminders of its historical significance. Alongside oil production, coconut vinegar became popular, used frequently in local cooking.

The connection between coconut cultivation and animal husbandry in Negombo is another thread in its rich tapestry. Pridham noted that the region boasted excellent pasturage, ideal for raising livestock. This historical practice saw Negombo supplying fish, poultry, and cattle to Colombo, with milk vendors a common sight until the 1990s. In the 1980s, yogurt production emerged, followed closely by mozzarella cheese made by locals inspired by Italian methods.

The Fishing Tradition

Negombo’s deep connection to fishing is another cornerstone of its identity. Over 15 poems and songs celebrate fish, revealing its cultural significance. The town is one of the Kovulu (fishing) villages, a designation underscoring its long-standing reputation in the fishing industry. Records from the Portuguese era indicate established piers for fishing vessels, highlighting the region’s historical fishing activity.

Fishing practices in Negombo are varied, employing unique methods such as using boats, ferries, and branch fishing. The tradition of sailing boats, symbolizing the fishing industry, likely originated during the Portuguese era, influenced by Catholic missionaries. Negombo has long been renowned for producing shrimps, crabs, squid, and a variety of fish. The local culinary culture celebrates fried fish, symbolizing not only fertility but also social status within the community.

With the fishing industry at its core, Negombo continues to produce fish-related ingredients, showcasing local culinary traditions. From goraka chilies to mustard, the town’s kitchens are rich with flavors. As noted in a 1949 article, mustard production has roots in the region, further reflecting its agricultural diversity. Salt production, too, was historically significant, carried out in areas like Munnakkaray, adding another layer to Negombo’s rich food history.

Alcohol and Tobacco Traditions

Coconut cultivation wasn’t the only agricultural activity flourishing in Negombo. The local lore even suggests that frog farming, linked to the legend of Queen Vihara Maha Devi, contributed to the town’s agricultural diversity. Boats were crucial for transporting frogs, especially in areas with waterway divisions like Katunayake and Kurana. By 1818, toad farming was documented in Kamachchoda, although it faced opposition over the years.

The distillation of alcohol, dating back to the Dutch era, saw Negombo become known for its unique white liquor, even finding its way to Cochin, India. Numerous court cases indicate a robust knowledge of alcohol production among locals, with homemade varieties common for local festivities, despite legal restrictions. Today, legal producers craft orange, milk, and lovi wine, maintaining the town’s rich beverage culture.

Tobacco cultivation thrived during the Dutch era as well, with plantations scattered across the region. The tobacco industry produced beedis and cigars, including a popular variant from Jaffna. The acceptance of alcohol and tobacco in daily life speaks to the cultural fabric of Negombo, where these items were woven into social interactions and traditions.

Agriculture and Commerce

Agricultural production has been a key player in shaping Negombo’s commercial landscape. By the 1900s, the town was a significant rice-selling center in Sri Lanka, with rice processing stations and mills contributing to local economies. Charles Pridham’s accounts of irrigation practices highlight the region’s agricultural prowess, leading to notable paddy output.

Negombo’s fruit market, which existed as early as 1870 on Khekan Kada Street, reflects the town’s agricultural diversity. Fruits like oranges, limes, and various tropical produce flourished, adding sweetness to the local diet. The influence of Dutch and Portuguese settlers brought new fruits from the Malaysian peninsula, enriching the area’s agricultural profile.

Coffee consumption, particularly the unique blend known as “Negombo coffee” made from coffee leaves, became popular in the late 1800s. By the turn of the century, factories began producing dried fruits like papaya, showcasing the region’s adaptability to market demands. As rice and fruit markets thrived, Negombo became a hub for trade, paving the way for modern agricultural practices to take root.